However, to try and make this easier, I have drawn up a series of diagrams that I am hoping will help out. Feel free to email me if you have any questions!
This pattern is written for both Double Pointed Needles, and Circular (Cable) needles. I made one glove on each, to help with conversion.
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| This is the key for the diagrams. |
In the diagrams below, please refer to this key on the left. Purple dots indicated 2 stitches that are twisted on every other row to form the small cables.
Green dots are Knit stitches while red dots are purls. Black dots are stitches that are no longer in use - either they are on reserve, or they are completed fingers. Blue dots are where you need to make a "new" stitch or grab a stitch from a finger.
Short lines are where you need to place stitch markers, while the longer lines with a line drawn between them show which stitches you will need for the different fingers.
I am currently working on getting this pattern saved in PDF for download and print ability.
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| These two cuffs have a few of the gusset stitches already working. If using If using DPN's, you need only 2 stitch markers. If using circular needles, you will need 4. |
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| To grab, or pick up stitches from a finger or the palm, simply slide your needled underneath the number you need. Take care to spread them out evenly to avoid large gaps. |
Deluxe cable-rib glove pattern (ladies medium-large)
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES
Size 2 needles, worsted weight yarn.
CO 48 stitches.
On 3 DPN's, 16 stitches on each.
Cuff - R1 - R30
Even rows: Needle 1 - k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p
Needle 2 - k16
Needle 3 - k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p
Odd rows: Needle 1 - k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p
Needle 2 - k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k
Needle 3 - k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p,k,p
Complete 30 rows.
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| This figure demonstrates the arrangement of the stitches onto the needles - and shows you where you are going to place your markers for making your thumb gussets. |
RIGHT GLOVE:
Row 31: Needle 1 - k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p
Needle 2 - k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k
Needle 3 - k, p, k, p, k, p, k, (place stitch marker*), m1, k, k, m1, (place stitch marker*), p, k, p, k, p, k, p
Row 32: Needle 1 - k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p
Needle 2 - k16
Needle 3 - k, p, k, p, k, p, k, (*), Knit ALL (*), p, k, p, k, p, k, p
Up to row 50, continue as shown but INCREASE by M1 every 3rd row, just inside your stitch markers, knitting in between.
You will increase by two stitches on rows 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46 and 49.
On row 50, knit straight across the gusset stitches. You will have increased your gusset so that it should have 16 stitches between your stitch markers.
Place your gusset stitches on reserve. You will now knit as before, but jump across those stitches and close the gap. You now have a thumb hole.
Knit 4 more rounds, maintaining your cable pattern and your rib pattern. Knit across Needles 1 and then knit one stitch off on Needle 2. Place the next 35 stitches reserve so that you have 11 of them working, almost opposite your gusset stitches.
Make 2 stitches on your needle using reverse cast on method, and join to the other side of your working stitches, so that you have 13 stitches in a round. Knit approximately 20 rows, to make your pinky finger. When you have knitted the correct length, decrease the stitches by knitting 2 together until you have 4 stitches left. Cut your yarn and pull it through your stitches, then cinch it closed.
Slide all of your stitches back onto your needles, minus the gusset stitches. As you do this, slide a needle under 3 of your pinky stitches, picking them up. Beginning on the inside of your pinky finger, start knitting again. Knit 3 rounds. It is not necessary to maintain your cable/rib pattern.
You should have 38 stitches.
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| This figure shows you which stitches you will take for your pinky finger. |
When you have returned to your starting point, save 12 stitches for your ring finger and place the rest on reserve. Just as you did with the pinky finger, make 2 new stitches for your ring finger, using the reverse cast on method. Once you have all 14 stitches joined in a ring, knit a tube that is approximately 25 rounds. Cinch closed in the same manner as you did for your pinky finger.
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| Use these stitches to make your ring finger. |
In the same way as you made your ring finger, now take 12 stitches and place them on your needle for your middle finger. You'll want to grab two stitches from your ring finger (the same way you grabbed stitches from your pinky right after it was made), and you'll want to make a new stitch on the opposite side - so that you have 15 stitches for you finger. If you need more, simply add in another to either side. If you need less, make the new stitches as shown and then knit two together on your next round. When you have joined your 15 stitches in a round, knit a finger that is approximately 25 to 30 rows and close up as you did before.
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| Use these stitches to make your middle finger. |
Finally, you only have your index finger. You ought to have 14 stitches left on reserve. Take all of these, and grab another from your middle finger. Knit these in the round for 20 to 25 rows, and close.
Your thumb is the last bit of knitting. You have 16 stitches already on reserve. I find that this is typically a good width to make a thumb out of, but you need to take 4 stitches from your palm, the way you did on the fingers. We do this so that our fingers and thumb are joined, or else we would have gaping holes at all of the joints. I like to take my 4 stitches from the palm, and begin knitting all 20 stitches - and then reduce by one, every single row so that by the time I have completed my fifth round, I am back to only 16. 20 rows usually do it for the average them, but you made need more or less.
LEFT GLOVE:
Row 31: Needle 1 - k, p, k, p, k, p, k, (place stitch marker*), m1, k, k, m1, (place stitch marker*), p, k, p, k, p, k, p
Needle 2 - k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k
Needle 3 - k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p
Row 32: Needle 1 - k, p, k, p, k, p, k, (*), Knit ALL (*), p, k, p, k, p, k, p
Needle 2 - k16
Needle 3 - k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p
Up to row 50, continue as shown but INCREASE by M1 every 3rd row, just inside your stitch markers, knitting in between.
You will increase by two stitches on rows 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46 and 49.
On row 50, knit straight across the gusset stitches. You will have increased your gusset so that it should have 16 stitches between your stitch markers.
Place your gusset stitches on reserve. You will now knit as before, but jump across those stitches and close the gap. You now have a thumb hole.
Knit 4 more rounds, maintaining your cable pattern and your rib pattern. Knit across Needles 1 and 2, and then 8 stitches on Needle 3. Place the next 35 stitches reserve so that you have 11 of them working, almost opposite your gusset stitches.
Make 2 stitches on your needle using reverse cast on method, and join to the other side of your working stitches, so that you have 13 stitches in a round. Knit approximately 20 rows, to make your pinky finger. When you have knitted the correct length, decrease the stitches by knitting 2 together until you have 4 stitches left. Cut your yarn and pull it through your stitches, then cinch it closed.
Slide all of your stitches back onto your needles, minus the gusset stitches. As you do this, slide a needle under 3 of your pinky stitches, picking them up. Beginning on the inside of your pinky finger, start knitting again. Knit 3 rounds. It is not necessary to maintain your cable/rib pattern.
You should have 38 stitches.
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| This figure demonstrates which stitches to use make your pinkie finger. |
When you have returned to your starting point, save 12 stitches for your ring finger and place the rest on reserve. Just as you did with the pinky finger, make 2 new stitches for your ring finger, using the reverse cast on method. Once you have all 14 stitches joined in a ring, knit a tube that is approximately 25 rounds. Cinch closed in the same manner as you did for your pinky finger.
Finally, you only have your index finger. You ought to have 14 stitches left on reserve. Take all of these, and grab another from your middle finger. Knit these in the round for 20 to 25 rows, and close.
Your thumb is the last bit of knitting. You have 16 stitches already on reserve. I find that this is typically a good width to make a thumb out of, but you need to take 4 stitches from your palm, the way you did on the fingers. We do this so that our fingers and thumb are joined, or else we would have gaping holes at all of the joints. I like to take my 4 stitches from the palm, and begin knitting all 20 stitches - and then reduce by one, every single row so that by the time I have completed my fifth round, I am back to only 16. 20 rows usually do it for the average them, but you made need more or less.
FINISHING:
Now that you have your fingers and thumb knitted, all that is left is the finishing work. Taking a crochet hook, pull all of the tail ends inside of your glove. Take a moment to examine the glove and find all of the biggest holes - these are typically at your finger/thumb joins, but you may find some along your gusset - depending on the type of M1's you used. Use your tail ends to suture these gaps closed, before you weave the tail ends in.
On the finger tips, You'll want to spread your knots out in the fingertip itself. A spiral pattern works best to evenly distribute them so that they are less noticeable.
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Circular (cable) Needles
Size 2 needles, worsted weight yarn.
On Circular Needles:
Front Needle, CO 22 stitches
Back Needle, CO 26 stitches
Even Rows: Front Needle - k,p,k,p, (place stitch marker), k16, (place stitch marker), k, p
Back Needle - k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p
Odd rows: Front Needle - k,p,k,p, (place stitch marker*), k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k, (place stitch marker*), k, p
Back Needle - k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p
Complete 30 rows.
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| This figure demonstrates the correct arrangement for your gloves, and shows you where to put the stitch markers, for forming your thumb gussets. |
RIGHT GLOVE:
Row 31: Front Needle - k,p,k,p, (*), k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k, (*), k, p
Back Needle - k, p, k, p, (*), m1, k, k, m1, (*), k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p
Row 32: Front Needle - k,p,k,p, (*), k16 (*), k, p
Back Needle - k, p, k, p, (*), Knit ALL (*), k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p
Up to row 50, continue as shown but INCREASE by M1 every 3rd row, just inside your stitch markers, knitting in between.
You will increase by two stitches on rows 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46 and 49.
On row 50, knit straight across the gusset stitches. You will have increased your gusset so that it should have 16 stitches between your stitch markers.
Place your gusset stitches on reserve. You will now knit as before, but jump across those stitches and close the gap. You now have a thumb hole.
Knit 4 more rounds, maintaining your cable pattern and your rib pattern, you want to end JUST BEFORE you start the 5th row of cable pattern. Knit across the stitches within your pattern, and end just inside your first stitch marker that marks your cable stitches. Take one from the inside of that marker, then place the next 35 stitches reserve. You will now have 11 stitches working, almost opposite your gusset stitches.
Make 2 stitches on your needle using reverse cast on method, and join to the other side of your working stitches, so that you have 13 stitches in a round. Knit approximately 20 rows, to make your pinky finger. When you have knitted the correct length, decrease the stitches by knitting 2 together until you have 4 stitches left. Cut your yarn and pull it through your stitches, then cinch it closed.
Slide all of your stitches back onto your needles, minus the gusset stitches. As you do this, slide a needle under 3 of your pinky stitches, picking them up. Beginning on the inside of your pinky finger, start knitting again. Knit 3 rounds. It is not necessary to maintain your cable/rib pattern.
You should have 38 stitches.
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| This figure demonstrates which stitches to take for your pinky finger. |
When you have returned to your starting point, save 12 stitches for your ring finger and place the rest on reserve. Just as you did with the pinky finger, make 2 new stitches for your ring finger, using the reverse cast on method. Once you have all 14 stitches joined in a ring, knit a tube that is approximately 25 rounds. Cinch closed in the same manner as you did for your pinky finger.
In the same way as you made your ring finger, now take 12 stitches and place them on your needle for your middle finger. You'll want to grab two stithces from your ring finger (the same way you grabbed stitches from your pinky right after it was made), and you'll want to make a new stitch on the opposite side - so that you have 15 stitches for you finger. If you need more, simply add in another to either side. If you need less, make the new stithces as shown and then knit two together on your next round. When you have joined your 15 stitches in a round, knit a finger that is approximately 25 to 30 rows and close up as you did before.
Finally, you only have your index finger. You ought to have 14 stitches left on reserve. Take all of these, and grab another from your middle finger. Knit these in the round for 20 to 25 rows, and close.
Your thumb is the last bit of knitting. You have 16 stitches already on reserve. I find that this is typically a good width to make a thumb out of, but you need to take 4 stitches from your palm, the way you did on the fingers. We do this so that our fingers and thumb are joined, or else we would have gaping holes at all of the joints. I like to take my 4 stitches from the palm, and begin knitting all 20 stitches - and then reduce by one, every single row so that by the time I have completed my fifth round, I am back to only 16. 20 rows usually do it for the average them, but you made need more or less.
LEFT GLOVE:
Row 31: Front Needle - k,p,k,p, (*), k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k, C2, k,(*), k, p
Back Needle - k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, (*), m1, k, k, m1, (*), k, p, k, p
Row 32: Front Needle - k,p,k,p, (*), k16 (*), k, p
Back Needle - k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, k, p, (*), Knit ALL (*), k, p, k, p
Up to row 50, continue as shown but INCREASE by M1 every 3rd row, just inside your stitch markers, knitting in between.
You will increase by 2 stitches on rows 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46 and 49.
row 50, knit straight across the gusset stitches. You will have increased your gusset so that it should have 16 stitches between your stitch markers.
Place your gusset stitches on reserve. You will now knit as before, but jump across those stitches and close the gap. You now have a thumb hole.
Knit 4 more rounds, maintaining your cable pattern and your rib pattern. You want to knit 8 stitches PAST your second stitch marker. Then place the next 35 stitches reserve. You will now have 11 stitches working, almost opposite your gusset stitches.
Make 2 stitches on your needle using reverse cast on method, and join to the other side of your working stitches, so that you have 13 stitches in a round. Knit approximately 20 rows, to make your pinky finger. When you have knitted the correct length, decrease the stitches by knitting 2 together until you have 4 stitches left. Cut your yarn and pull it through your stitches, then cinch it closed.
Slide all of your stitches back onto your needles, minus the gusset stitches. As you do this, slide a needle under 3 of your pinky stitches, picking them up. Beginning on the inside of your pinky finger, start knitting again. Knit 3 rounds. It is not necessary to maintain your cable/rib pattern.
You should have 38 stitches.
When you have returned to your starting point, save 12 stitches for your ring finger and place the rest on reserve. Just as you did with the pinky finger, make 2 new stitches for your ring finger, using the reverse cast on method. Once you have all 14 stitches joined in a ring, knit a tube that is approximately 25 rounds. Cinch closed in the same manner as you did for your pinky finger.
In the same way as you made your ring finger, now take 12 stitches and place them on your needle for your middle finger. You'll want to grab two stithces from your ring finger (the same way you grabbed stitches from your pinky right after it was made), and you'll want to make a new stitch on the opposite side - so that you have 15 stitches for you finger. If you need more, simply add in another to either side. If you need less, make the new stithces as shown and then knit two together on your next round. When you have joined your 15 stitches in a round, knit a finger that is approximately 25 to 30 rows and close up as you did before.
Finally, you only have your index finger. You ought to have 14 stitches left on reserve. Take all of these, and grab another from your middle finger. Knit these in the round for 20 to 25 rows, and close.
Your thumb is the last bit of knitting. You have 16 stitches already on reserve. I find that this is typically a good width to make a thumb out of, but you need to take 4 stitches from your palm, the way you did on the fingers. We do this so that our fingers and thumb are joined, or else we would have gaping holes at all of the joints. I like to take my 4 stitches from the palm, and begin knitting all 20 stitches - and then reduce by one, every single row so that by the time I have completed my fifth round, I am back to only 16. 20 rows usually do it for the average them, but you made need more or less.
FINISHING:
Now that you have your fingers and thumb knitted, all that is left is the finishing work. Taking a crochet hook, pull all of the tail ends inside of your glove. Take a moment to examine the glove and find all of the biggest holes - these are typically at your finger/thumb joins, but you may find some along your gusset - depending on the type of M1's you used. Use your tail ends to suture these gaps closed, before you weave the tail ends in.
On the finger tips, You'll want to spread your knots out in the fingertip itself. A spiral pattern works best to evenly distribute them so that they are less noticeable.
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